Hi, I m looking fo some informations about Grossglockner south face. Please mail it to h******y@seznam.cz

There are around 30 routes - including variations leading up to the Grossglockner. More than 90% of all ascents in the summer months are made from Salm Hut and Stüdl Hut over the normal path to Erzherzog-Johann Hut and then over Glocknerleitl to the summit. The ascent from Stüdl Hut over Stüdl Ridge, leading directly onto the Grossglockner, is also very popular.

The main routes lead to the top from the “mountain climbing villages” of Heiligenblut and Kals a. G. to Erzherzog-Johann Hut (3,454m) at Adlersruhe. Any ascent of the Grossglockner is recommended as a two-day trip.

Drive a car or take the bus from Kals a. G. (1,325m) via Kals Glocknerstrasse to Lucknerhaus (1,920m); and then via Luckner Hut (2,241 m) to Stüdl Hut (2,802m; 3 hours). From Stüdl Hut take AV path no. 712 to the cairn at the beginning of the Ködnitzkees. Cross the Ködnitzkees and over a protected ridge to Erzherzog-Johann Hut (3,454m) to Adlersruhe. An alternative route takes us from Lucknerhaus to Luckner Hut and, after continuing to walk for 10 minutes, we arrive at a fork. We then turn right onto path no. 712A, to Mürztal Track. Take this route, protected in parts, up to Erzherzog-Johann Hut (4.5 hours).

From Heiligenblut, go along Mautstrasse to Franz-Josefs- Höhe (“Franz-Josefs Summit”); over the Pasterze glacier path (glacier track), down to Pasterze; after crossing the glacier, a steep path leads up to “Frühstücksplatz” (“Breakfast Square” [2,793 m]); continue over Hofmannskees, which has plenty of crevices, to Salmkamp (“Salm Field”) and to Erzherzog-Johann Hut at Adlersruhe (5 hours). An alternative route from “Breakfast Square” is via Glocknerkar Field (= “Meletzkigrad”; class II degree of difficulty).

From Heiligenblut, through Leitertal (“Leiter Valley”) (on Fürstbischof Salm path) to Salm Hut (4 to 5 hours) or on Mautstrasse to Glocknerhaus and over Stocker Gap to Salm Hut (2,638m; 3 hours); an alternative route leads from Lucknerhaus to Glorer Hut in 2 hours and another hour to Salm Hut; over Hohenwartkees and the western side of the rocks (class I degree of difficulty, protected) into Hohenwart Gap. Continue over Salm Field to Erzherzog-Johann Hut (3 to 3.5 hours).

„Ascent of the Grossglockner from Erzherzog-Johann Hut” 360m climbing height, fixed securing points in places, class II degree of difficulty, up to 40 degrees on “Glocknerleitl”, 1.5 to 2.5 hours (even on the easiest descent). From Erzherzog-Johann Hut over Firnrücken (“Firn Ridge”) and the steep, 40 degrees ice overhang of “Glocknerleitl” up to the point where the rocks begin. Over the ridge to the Kleinglockner, descent into the Glockner Gap and over steep paving (class II degree of difficulty) up to the summit cross. Bolts with rings and iron sticks are provided as securing option all over the rocky area.

„Stüdlgrat“ (south-west ridge), 550m climbing height from entrance, partly xed securing points, class II and III and on one section class IV degree of difficulty, 3.5 hours (1,000m climbing height from Stüdl Hut, 5 hours). From Stüdl Hut to Teischnitzkees, traveling west under Luisen Ridge to Luisen Gap and further west past the Grat (“ridge”) and directly to the entrance of Stüdl Ridge. Climing is usually directly on the ridge - danger of rock falls on the west side. The really difficulty climbing only begins from the second half of the ridge (Breakfast Square).

Beware: glacier visits on all routes; ropes should definitely be used. Crampons required.
Beware: No small route on the Grossglockner is easy, and not the climb over the Salm Hut! Stüdl Ridge is not a climbing ascent.

Camping is forbidden in the national park but alpine bivouacs are allowed. Climbers normally use one of the huts.

Weather: Alpenvereinswetterbericht weather report for the whole alps, in German, done by the office in Innsbruck/Austria

In order to provide better information the Austrian alpine club has invented a brochure (from where I have all the information). I attached so you can download it.

Must to know before planing:

Equipment (normal path)
• 1x rucksack 30-40l
• weatherproof high-alpine mountain sport clothing, including jacket, top-quality gloves, hat, gaiters
• instep crampon mountain boots (range of use C/D)
• sunglasses, lip protection, sun protection cream and cover
• sleeping bag for use in huts, means of washing (smallest format)
• first-aid equipment, bivouac sack, forehead lamp
• combination-belt or alpine climbing harness
• mountain ropes (simple rope/10mm/40m)
• crampons with anti-spike plate, 1x ice pick, 2x ice screws
• 2x cords (3m and 5m), 2x strap loops (120cm)
• 5x carabineers, 3 of which have screw retention, safety appliance
• Alpine Association map “Glocknergruppe” no. 40

in addition for access to Stüdl Ridge:
• rock fall helmet, 2x express sets

Knowledge & skills
• surefootedness, head for heights, crampon technique
• physical fitness, condition for 8 hours
• acclimatization
• roping technique, techniques for crevice rescue*
• securing technique on glaciers and ridges*
• knowledge of orientation*

in addition for access to Stüdl ridge inspection:
• climbing technique - class III to IV degree of difficulty
• securing and abseiling technique*

* not required if led by a mountain guide

Weather report
The “Alpine Association weather service” oers a recorded announcement and personal advice on the telephone. Local mountain guides and hut landlords are also happy to provide information on weather and conditions on the mountain.
Personal advice: +43/(0)512/291600 (Mon-Sat 13.00-18.00) Recorded service in Austria - Overall alpine weather: 0900 91156680 - Eastern Alps: 0900 91156682 - Regional alpine weather: 0900 91156681 Recorded service in Germany - alpine weather report: 0190116011